Military jackets, elongated blazers and high waisted trousers were just
some of the looks at Lanvin‘s AW15 presentation. It was as utilitarian as
it was rock & roll, like a Prince of Wales check versus tailored joggers.
Layered knits over shirts were a 70s reference, as has been seen at several
shows. Coats over parkas and bomber jackets over cropped ones confirmed the
idea that tailoring and casual be mixed into one look.
Soft, fluid and seventies was the order of the day at Paul Smith.
Oversized wool outerwear in grey toned checks draped over trousers that sat
above the waist. A suit in faded orange broke the grey spell, as did the
finale of fur coats, which were as relevant back in the day as they would
be on today’s rap stars. Smith said: “The skill of being a designer is to
have a very childlike outlook on life. Like Picasso said, even as he got
older he tried to have the eyes of a child and to paint with freedom.”
Thom Browne followed Comme des Garcons ceremonial presenation, although
his more funereal than anything to do than tattoo artistry. Models in
topcoats and hats opened the show, conveying the concept of mourning in
something beautiful and rich. As for the clothes, they came all in black,
but there was a wealth of offering, like a black leather car coat, a
fur-trimmed peacoat as well as Browne’s signature jackets and tailoring.
The skinniest of jeans, a tucked in striped sweater under a peacoat, this
could only be Saint Laurent. Rock and laid-back chic is the foundation of
the new YSL brand under director Hedi Slimane. A skinny pinstripe suit with
a white tie could be stage attire for the sartorially confident lead
singer, whilst off-duty he could slip into the skintight leather trousers
worn with a fur coat. Flashes of red, hot pink and zebra print injected
the mostly black and grey collection. A multi zip leather trouser – count 9
zips on the front of each leg – will be the Saint Laurent press item of the